There's one line we hear behind the bar most weeks: "Could I get a glass of the house wine?" And every time, we're a little proud to pour it. Because at Smúz the house wine isn't the nameless plonk you get almost everywhere. Ours is the Tokaji of the Mád-based Holdvölgy Pincészet — one of Hungary's most awarded wineries, whose wines feature on the lists of dozens of the world's Michelin-starred restaurants.
That's no accident, and it isn't a marketing line. Just as we never reach for the cheapest sack of coffee, we keep one rule with wine too: we'd rather work with a single partner we trust than ten we don't. In this post we introduce Holdvölgy and walk you through the selection we pour at Smúz. Their full range is far wider — we simply picked our favourites for the list, depending on whether you fancy an easy glass on Kossuth Square or you've come to celebrate.
Who are Holdvölgy, and why do we trust them?
Holdvölgy farms in the heart of Tokaj, in Mád, on some of the region's historically finest vineyards. The estate grew from a half-hectare plot — once a birthday present — into nearly 30 hectares across seven vineyards. The part that wins us over: they work only with their own grapes, and only ever aim for premium quality.
Beneath the winery runs a nearly two-kilometre, three-level historic cellar labyrinth, joined together centuries ago from the cellars of noble families — the Andrássys, Csákys and Károlyis. The winery building itself is an award-winning piece of modern architecture, and the wines collect golds at Hungarian and international competitions. Hungary's sommeliers have voted Holdvölgy the country's best winery, and its cellar tour took the Vince Award for Best Cellar Visit.
In short: when you drink a Tokaj wine at Smúz, there's the work of an award-winning Mád winery in your glass. Now for the fun part — what to drink, when, and why.
The Holdvölgy list at Smúz: what to drink and when
Hold and Hollo – the house wine for every day
Hold and Hollo is Holdvölgy's young, easy-drinking range, famous for its brightly coloured silicone labels — bottles that are a bit of decoration on the counter in their own right. For us, this is the house wine: what we pour when you simply want a good glass of Tokaji with your conversation, no fuss.
Fresh, moreish, never showy — and yet the character of Tokaj's terroir is right there in the glass. It's the wine you can order "just because" and still feel you got real value for your money. Which is exactly why it became our house wine.
UPPP – the bubbles behind our spritz
When the sun comes out and terrace season starts, UPPP is our favourite. It's Hold and Hollo's off-dry pétillant — lively, faintly orange-tinted bubbles with peach and citrus. Lovely on its own, but it's often the base of our spritz, too: where others top up the Aperol with plain prosecco, we lift the glass with a Tokaj pétillant.
So next time you order a spritz on Kossuth Square, you'll know there's nothing ordinary in the fizz.
The "pink" – Hold and Hollo's sweet, magenta-label wine
Our sweet line opens with Hold and Hollo's magenta-pink sweet Tokaji — we just call it the pink. Peach, orange peel, honey and a pinch of cinnamon: this is the wine that proves sweet Tokaji needn't be heavy or old-fashioned, but can be light and elegant.
A perfect way in if you're still getting to know sweet wines and curious what Tokaj is really about. With dessert, or simply on its own to round off the day — both work beautifully.
Meditation – the premium Furmint for special moments
When a guest wants something more serious, we point them to the Meditation Furmint. This is Holdvölgy's elegant, premium estate line: a clean, deep, contemplative dry Furmint that shows what a Tokaj vineyard can do when the winemaker really pays attention.
This is the glass you sip slowly. The one you sit down with. The one you end up talking about. If you want to treat yourself — or quietly impress someone on a date — this is the one.
Culture Aszú – the wine for celebrations
And finally, the crown: Tokaji Aszú. The 6-puttonyos Aszú from Holdvölgy's Culture range is the summit of a centuries-old tradition — and the winery has made one in every single vintage since 2006, which is rare even here. It reaches the bottle only after years of ageing, and every sip feels like a small celebration.
For us, Aszú belongs to the big moments — whenever there's something worth marking. A small glass to finish, and the evening turns into one you remember.
What goes with what? A few tips from behind the bar
- A long afternoon catch-up: Hold and Hollo, the house wine — easy, and it never steals focus from the conversation.
- Sunshine on the terrace: UPPP, on its own or as a spritz.
- For a sweet tooth: the pink, even alongside a slice of cake.
- A date or a celebration: Meditation Furmint, sipped slowly.
- A proper occasion: Culture Aszú, the perfect finish.
You don't need to be a wine buff — just tell us the mood you're in, and leave the rest to us.
Frequently asked questions
What is Smúz's house wine?
Smúz's house wine is the Hold and Hollo Tokaji from Holdvölgy Pincészet in Mád — their light, youthful line, which we recommend by the glass for easy, everyday drinking.
Where can you drink good Tokaj wine in central Budapest?
At Smúz Café, on Kossuth Lajos tér 18, right beside Parliament. We keep a selection from Holdvölgy's rich portfolio, from the light pétillant all the way to the 6-puttonyos Aszú.
What wine do you use for Aperol spritz?
For our spritz, we use the Holdvölgy Hold and Hollo UPPP semi-dry Tokaj sparkling wine instead of the usual prosecco – a slightly more exciting bubble.
Is there sweet wine and aszú on offer?
Yes. The sweet line is based on the sweet („pink”) Tokaji of Hold and Hollo, and for festive occasions there is the Holdvölgy Culture 6 puttonyos aszú.
Where can I find the Smoothie?
Smúz Café – 1055 Budapest, Kossuth Lajos tér 18. Specialty coffee during the day, wine and cocktails in the evening, a step away from the Parliament.
Come on, let's have a toast.
Wine is not a separate world for us next to coffee – it has the same attitude behind it: good ingredients, a good partner, and a place where it's nice to sit. If you're curious about what it's like when an award-winning Tokaj winery becomes the house wine, come to Kossuth Square and let's start with a glass of Hold and Holló.
We are waiting here: Smoothie Café, Budapest, Kossuth Lajos Square 18.