{"id":3195,"date":"2026-06-23T13:04:12","date_gmt":"2026-06-23T11:04:12","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.smuzcafe.hu\/?p=3195"},"modified":"2026-06-25T08:28:33","modified_gmt":"2026-06-25T06:28:33","slug":"house-wine-holdvolgy-tokaj-kossuth-square","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.smuzcafe.hu\/en\/haz-bora-holdvolgy-kossuth-ter\/","title":{"rendered":"Comments on: The house wine in Sm\u00faz: Tokaji Holdv\u00f6lgy wine on Kossuth Square"},"content":{"rendered":"

There's one line we hear behind the bar most weeks: \"Could I get a glass of the house wine?\" And every time, we're a little proud to pour it. Because at Sm\u00faz the house wine isn't the nameless plonk you get almost everywhere. Ours is the Tokaji of the M\u00e1d-based Holdv\u00f6lgy Pinc\u00e9szet<\/a> \u2014 one of Hungary's most awarded wineries, whose wines feature on the lists of dozens of the world's Michelin-starred restaurants.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"The<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

That's no accident, and it isn't a marketing line. Just as we never reach for the cheapest sack of coffee, we keep one rule with wine too: we'd rather work with a single partner we trust than ten we don't. In this post we introduce Holdv\u00f6lgy and walk you through the selection we pour at Sm\u00faz. Their full range is far wider \u2014 we simply picked our favourites for the list, depending on whether you fancy an easy glass on Kossuth Square or you've come to celebrate.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Who are Holdv\u00f6lgy, and why do we trust them?<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Holdv\u00f6lgy farms in the heart of Tokaj, in M\u00e1d, on some of the region's historically finest vineyards. The estate grew from a half-hectare plot \u2014 once a birthday present \u2014 into nearly 30 hectares across seven vineyards. The part that wins us over: they work only with their own grapes, and only ever aim for premium quality.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Beneath the winery runs a nearly two-kilometre, three-level historic cellar labyrinth, joined together centuries ago from the cellars of noble families \u2014 the Andr\u00e1ssys, Cs\u00e1kys and K\u00e1rolyis. The winery building itself is an award-winning piece of modern architecture, and the wines collect golds at Hungarian and international competitions. Hungary's sommeliers have voted Holdv\u00f6lgy the country's best winery, and its cellar tour took the Vince Award for Best Cellar Visit.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In short: when you drink a Tokaj wine at Sm\u00faz, there's the work of an award-winning M\u00e1d winery in your glass. Now for the fun part \u2014 what to drink, when, and why.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The Holdv\u00f6lgy list at Sm\u00faz: what to drink and when<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Hold and Hollo \u2013 the house wine for every day<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Hold and Hollo is Holdv\u00f6lgy's young, easy-drinking range, famous for its brightly coloured silicone labels \u2014 bottles that are a bit of decoration on the counter in their own right. For us, this is the house wine: what we pour when you simply want a good glass of Tokaji with your conversation, no fuss.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Fresh, moreish, never showy \u2014 and yet the character of Tokaj's terroir is right there in the glass. It's the wine you can order \"just because\" and still feel you got real value for your money. Which is exactly why it became our house wine.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

UPPP \u2013 the bubbles behind our spritz<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

When the sun comes out and terrace season starts, UPPP is our favourite. It's Hold and Hollo's off-dry p\u00e9tillant \u2014 lively, faintly orange-tinted bubbles with peach and citrus. Lovely on its own, but it's often the base of our spritz, too: where others top up the Aperol with plain prosecco, we lift the glass with a Tokaj p\u00e9tillant.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

So next time you order a spritz on Kossuth Square, you'll know there's nothing ordinary in the fizz.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The \"pink\" \u2013 Hold and Hollo's sweet, magenta-label wine<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Our sweet line opens with Hold and Hollo's magenta-pink sweet Tokaji \u2014 we just call it the pink. Peach, orange peel, honey and a pinch of cinnamon: this is the wine that proves sweet Tokaji needn't be heavy or old-fashioned, but can be light and elegant.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A perfect way in if you're still getting to know sweet wines and curious what Tokaj is really about. With dessert, or simply on its own to round off the day \u2014 both work beautifully.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Meditation \u2013 the premium Furmint for special moments<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

When a guest wants something more serious, we point them to the Meditation Furmint. This is Holdv\u00f6lgy's elegant, premium estate line: a clean, deep, contemplative dry Furmint that shows what a Tokaj vineyard can do when the winemaker really pays attention.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

This is the glass you sip slowly. The one you sit down with. The one you end up talking about. If you want to treat yourself \u2014 or quietly impress someone on a date \u2014 this is the one.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Culture Asz\u00fa \u2013 the wine for celebrations<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

And finally, the crown: Tokaji Asz\u00fa. The 6-puttonyos Asz\u00fa from Holdv\u00f6lgy's Culture range is the summit of a centuries-old tradition \u2014 and the winery has made one in every single vintage since 2006, which is rare even here. It reaches the bottle only after years of ageing, and every sip feels like a small celebration.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

For us, Asz\u00fa belongs to the big moments \u2014 whenever there's something worth marking. A small glass to finish, and the evening turns into one you remember.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

What goes with what? A few tips from behind the bar<\/h2>\n\n\n\n